Vogue: The Art of Helen Dryden
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Helen Dryden
Born November 5, 1887
Baltimore, Maryland
Died July 1981 (aged 93)
Helen Dryden (1887 – 1981) was an American artist and successful industrial designer in the
1920s and 1930s. She was reportedly described by the New York Times as being the highest
paid woman artist in the United States, though she lived in comparative poverty in later years.
Helen Dryden
Born November 5, 1887
Baltimore, Maryland
Died July 1981 (aged 93)
Helen Dryden (1887 – 1981) was an American artist and successful industrial designer in the
1920s and 1930s. She was reportedly described by the New York Times as being the highest
paid woman artist in the United States, though she lived in comparative poverty in later years.
Dryden was born in Baltimore and moved to Philadelphia when she was seven years old to
attend Eden Hall. During her early childhood years Dryden showed unusual artistic ability,
designing and selling clothes for paper dolls. Eventually she sold a set of her paper dolls and
dresses to a newspaper for use in its fashion section. This in turn led to a position as illustrator
for Anne Rittenhouse's fashion articles in the Philadelphia Public Ledger and The Philadelphia
Press.
attend Eden Hall. During her early childhood years Dryden showed unusual artistic ability,
designing and selling clothes for paper dolls. Eventually she sold a set of her paper dolls and
dresses to a newspaper for use in its fashion section. This in turn led to a position as illustrator
for Anne Rittenhouse's fashion articles in the Philadelphia Public Ledger and The Philadelphia
Press.
Dryden was largely self-trained, describing her works as "a combination of things I like, in
the way I want to do them." Her artistic education consisted of four years of training in
landscape painting under Hugh Breckinridge and one summer school session at the
Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts. Deciding that she had no real interest in landscape
painting, Dryden focused her complete attention on fashion design and illustration.
the way I want to do them." Her artistic education consisted of four years of training in
landscape painting under Hugh Breckinridge and one summer school session at the
Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts. Deciding that she had no real interest in landscape
painting, Dryden focused her complete attention on fashion design and illustration.
Career
Fashion illustration
After moving to New York in 1909, Dryden spent a year trying to interest fashion magazines
in her drawings. None, however, showed any interest in her work and many were harsh with
criticism. Dryden was particularly disappointed in her rejection by Vogue. Less than a year
later, however, Condé Nast Publications assumed management of Vogue and set out to make
changes. Upon seeing Dryden's drawings, they directed the fashion editor to contact her
immediately. The result was a Vogue contract that led to a 13-year collaboration (1909–1922)
during which she produced many fashion illustrations and magazine covers. Her "essentially
romantic style produced some of the most appealing, yet fantastical images on Vogue covers,
frequently depicting imagined rather than realistic representations of dress." She also
illustrated other Condé Nast titles, including Vanity Fair and House and Garden.
Fashion illustration
After moving to New York in 1909, Dryden spent a year trying to interest fashion magazines
in her drawings. None, however, showed any interest in her work and many were harsh with
criticism. Dryden was particularly disappointed in her rejection by Vogue. Less than a year
later, however, Condé Nast Publications assumed management of Vogue and set out to make
changes. Upon seeing Dryden's drawings, they directed the fashion editor to contact her
immediately. The result was a Vogue contract that led to a 13-year collaboration (1909–1922)
during which she produced many fashion illustrations and magazine covers. Her "essentially
romantic style produced some of the most appealing, yet fantastical images on Vogue covers,
frequently depicting imagined rather than realistic representations of dress." She also
illustrated other Condé Nast titles, including Vanity Fair and House and Garden.
Costume design
In addition to her prolific career as an illustrator, in 1914 Dryden launched a successful career
as a costume designer. She designed the scenery and some of the costumes for the musical
comedy Watch Your Step, followed by designs for several other stage plays including Clair
de Lune, the fanciful drama based loosely on a Victor Hugo romance. Although the play
starred Lionel and Ethel Barrymore, Helen Dryden's costume designs were generally given
equal credit for the play's success.
In addition to her prolific career as an illustrator, in 1914 Dryden launched a successful career
as a costume designer. She designed the scenery and some of the costumes for the musical
comedy Watch Your Step, followed by designs for several other stage plays including Clair
de Lune, the fanciful drama based loosely on a Victor Hugo romance. Although the play
starred Lionel and Ethel Barrymore, Helen Dryden's costume designs were generally given
equal credit for the play's success.
Industrial design
Following the 1925 Paris Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels
Modernes, Dryden turned her attention to industrial design, producing a number of designs
for tableware, lamps, and other housewares, for the Revere Corporation. She had a highly
paid job with the Dura Company until the stock market crash of 1929, at which point she
was replaced by George W. Walker.[6] It seems Dryden never fully recovered from this blow.
According to Christopher Gray, "The 1925 census recorded her living at 9 East 10th Street
with her 25-year-old Philippine-born cook and butler, Ricardo Lampitok.
Following the 1925 Paris Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels
Modernes, Dryden turned her attention to industrial design, producing a number of designs
for tableware, lamps, and other housewares, for the Revere Corporation. She had a highly
paid job with the Dura Company until the stock market crash of 1929, at which point she
was replaced by George W. Walker.[6] It seems Dryden never fully recovered from this blow.
According to Christopher Gray, "The 1925 census recorded her living at 9 East 10th Street
with her 25-year-old Philippine-born cook and butler, Ricardo Lampitok.
Dryden worked for Studebaker from 1934 to 1937, reportedly earning $100,000 per year.
Automotive designer Raymond Loewy contracted with her to help him design Studebaker
interiors.[8] Her work on the interior of the 1936 Studebaker Dictator and President that
established Helen Dryden as an important twentieth-century industrial designer. The
advertisements by the automaker proclaimed, "It's styled by Helen Dryden." Dryden designed
the Studebaker President throughout, and the press marveled that a woman had attained this
eminence in mechanical engineering. She was considered "one of the top industrial designers
and one of the few women in the automotive field." Dryden worked with Loewy through 1940.[8]
By 1956 Dryden was again living in a $10-a-week hotel room paid for by the city's Welfare
Department. At the time, she referred nostalgically to "her '$200-a-month' 10th Street
apartment".
Automotive designer Raymond Loewy contracted with her to help him design Studebaker
interiors.[8] Her work on the interior of the 1936 Studebaker Dictator and President that
established Helen Dryden as an important twentieth-century industrial designer. The
advertisements by the automaker proclaimed, "It's styled by Helen Dryden." Dryden designed
the Studebaker President throughout, and the press marveled that a woman had attained this
eminence in mechanical engineering. She was considered "one of the top industrial designers
and one of the few women in the automotive field." Dryden worked with Loewy through 1940.[8]
By 1956 Dryden was again living in a $10-a-week hotel room paid for by the city's Welfare
Department. At the time, she referred nostalgically to "her '$200-a-month' 10th Street
apartment".
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